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UNBROKEN’s Iconic Silver ST build

OP
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Thread Starter #221
yeah... hope brakes will do that. ;-)

Cat 1 DH rider here. [wave] Mad respect for the BMX boys. a guy your size, you race cruisers or 20"?
I’m so old and beat up all I can do is cruise around and bar hop with the boys these days. lol
A torn rotator cuff and no knees left will do that to a guy. lol
And I love Hope stuff. Tech3 V4’s on this with a 180mm floating rotor stops on a dime. I take this bike with me all the time...last year it spent 6 months in the Caribbean and then Japan with me....just incredible riding....especially on the Shimanami Kaido Bike road. This was a night ride in Tokyo with a local BMX group.
2C94EE17-0FA2-4A8D-9E65-4EE51F7F6996.jpeg
 

zdubyadubya

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not to derail your thread, but i also unfortunately have expensive tastes in bikes. this was my enduro rig for this year.
View attachment ADP_1813.jpg
 

zdubyadubya

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I’m so old and beat up all I can do is cruise around and bar hop with the boys these days. lol
A torn rotator cuff and no knees left will do that to a guy. lol
And I love Hope stuff. Tech3 V4’s on this with a 180mm floating rotor stops on a dime. I take this bike with me all the time...last year it spent 6 months in the Caribbean and then Japan with me....just incredible riding....especially on the Shimanami Kaido Bike road. This was a night ride in Tokyo with a local BMX group.
View attachment 1795
the godzilla in the background makes this picture.
 

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not to derail your thread, but i also unfortunately have expensive tastes in bikes. this was my enduro rig for this year.
View attachment 1801
That looks expensive... I wish I could get into Mtn biking... Just too old and fat.. lol
 

Jshaffer3819

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Ramps are fine. No issues.
Sorry got another question. Almost done installing my swaybar but I am confused about how to torque the sway bar ends. It’s so close to the rear coil springs and not sure how you torque it using the T 40 and the 18 mm box end.Do I just hold the boxing on the 18 mm and torque with the T 40?


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Sorry got another question. Almost done installing my swaybar but I am confused about how to torque the sway bar ends. It’s so close to the rear coil springs and not sure how you torque it using the T 40 and the 18 mm box end.Do I just hold the boxing on the 18 mm and torque with the T 40?


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Great question. The Steeda video doesn't show/explain this part either. I've been wondering the same thing too.
 

Jshaffer3819

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Great question. The Steeda video doesn't show/explain this part either. I've been wondering the same thing too.
I posted this response on a different thread. Hope it helps. It was pretty easy overall.

ou hold the shaft of the upper sway bar end with the T40 to keep it from spinning then use your wrench to loosen the 18 mm bolt. Came off pretty easy. I was having a hard time putting it back on and torquing it to 76 foot pounds. Basically what I did was put the 18mm bolt back on the same way I took it off. Hold the shaft with the T40 then tighten the 18mm bolt with the box wrench. Once the bolt is semi tight, I used a torque wrench to finish tightening it to 76 lbs. That last step confused me, Which isn’t hard to do. The Steeda directions say to use the T40 to torque it. I tried that and snapped the T40. Thankfully I had an extra one so the next time I just used the T40 to hold the shaft until it was tight enough where stop using the T40 and I could use the torque wrench with an 18 mm socket and the shaft didn’t spin. Picture #15 on the instructions is wrong. They are showing the lower sway bar end which we don’t remove. Should have showed the upper instead. Lessons learned


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I posted this response on a different thread. Hope it helps. It was pretty easy overall.

ou hold the shaft of the upper sway bar end with the T40 to keep it from spinning then use your wrench to loosen the 18 mm bolt. Came off pretty easy. I was having a hard time putting it back on and torquing it to 76 foot pounds. Basically what I did was put the 18mm bolt back on the same way I took it off. Hold the shaft with the T40 then tighten the 18mm bolt with the box wrench. Once the bolt is semi tight, I used a torque wrench to finish tightening it to 76 lbs. That last step confused me, Which isn’t hard to do. The Steeda directions say to use the T40 to torque it. I tried that and snapped the T40. Thankfully I had an extra one so the next time I just used the T40 to hold the shaft until it was tight enough where stop using the T40 and I could use the torque wrench with an 18 mm socket and the shaft didn’t spin. Picture #15 on the instructions is wrong. They are showing the lower sway bar end which we don’t remove. Should have showed the upper instead. Lessons learned


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Yeah, saw that other reply thanks! Very helpful. :)
 

OP
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Looks like that question was answered. lol
I was busy wasting money...thought I’d like the c-pillars wrapped but I pretty much hate it. I should have thrown that 150 bucks in the trash because that’s what I’m about to do with this vinyl.

B3F1410D-E89C-49A9-969B-800881EAE050.jpeg
 

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Looks like that question was answered. lol
I was busy wasting money...thought I’d like the c-pillars wrapped but I pretty much hate it. I should have thrown that 150 bucks in the trash because that’s what I’m about to do with this vinyl.

View attachment 1807
Go full bore and Wrap the Roof...I agree, not a fan of just the C-Pillars. ALL or nothing for me

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Thread Starter #233
I’m the opposite. I don’t like the full roof wrap...plus the heat factor here in southeast Texas.
 

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Damn...315/35/22’s are a rare tire size. All I’m finding is a Pirelli P-Zero and a Continental SSR. Anyone ever seen anything else?
 

Nbk4t5e

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Damn...315/35/22’s are a rare tire size. All I’m finding is a Pirelli P-Zero and a Continental SSR. Anyone ever seen anything else?
Nope. If MPSS come out with them I’ll get a set at 20k miles


2020 Explorer ST - Storm Trooper Build

Borla S-Type Exhaust | SPD Downpipes | Vossen HF-5 | Michelin PSS Tires | Speeda Rear Sway | Turbosmart BOV | Rear Wiper Delete | Clear Bra | Tinted Headlights | H&R Springs | Custom Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel | Custom Front and Rear Emblems | UPR Catch Can | SPD thermostat
 

zdubyadubya

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Damn...315/35/22’s are a rare tire size. All I’m finding is a Pirelli P-Zero and a Continental SSR. Anyone ever seen anything else?
finding almost anything wider than a 305 at 22” is almost impossible. I’ve been looking for weeks. I had a similar thought... 315s fit comfortably on a 10.5 rim... I was like why all these dudes stopping at 305.... oh... now I know why...
 

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No pics but today is colder plugs and an SPD 170* t-stat. Lemme tell y’all...the plugs suck. I’m used to a 15 minute plug swap on my blown Coyote...this ain’t that.
 

Nbk4t5e

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No pics but today is colder plugs and an SPD 170* t-stat. Lemme tell y’all...the plugs suck. I’m used to a 15 minute plug swap on my blown Coyote...this ain’t that.
Was the stat messy?

My catch can and t stat came in and looking to do next week.
 

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Unbroken, since you are the Guru on wheels and tires, am I going to have issues with off the rack 22x10.5 35 offsets? I’m thinking I will be in quarter or less than your beautiful wheels! Thanks. Jim
 

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Was the stat messy?

My catch can and t stat came in and looking to do next week.
Just finished the plugs. About to tackle that after lunch.
 

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