OP
Thread Starter
#581
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UNBROKEN’s Iconic Silver ST build
- Thread starter UNBROKEN
- Start date
OP
Thread Starter
#586
Of course it’s bling.
I am totally impervious to name-calling so you might as well stop (That is a pun).
Here is some parts of an article that you probably won’t read but maybe some others might find interesting. I was selective In the paragraphs I chose. I particularly liked the “male enhancement” comment. I’m sure you will too.
”Nothing makes people say “ZOMG!” quite like big front calipers, especially when they’re painted bright red. But big calipers do more than just look hot—they provide more clamp force on the rotor. More clamp force means more brake torque, which shifts the system balance toward front-bias. Big front calipers also require more fluid volume, which means longer pedal travel and less fluid reserve for when pad fade strikes.
So, unless your system is rear-biased, big front calipers are going to hurt, not help, your system balance. And if your master cylinder was marginally sized before the swap, you could wind up putting all your pedal force into the floorboard rather than into generating higher line pressures.”
”Assuming all other system parameters are held constant, increasing rotor diameter increases front brake thermal mass and front brake torque output. Think carefully—does your car really need that?
If you don’t see heat-checking or other thermal distress in your existing rotors, then you don’t need more thermal mass.”
”The key is to keep the system balanced. If larger front rotors are installed with no other changes, the system will become more front-biased. This is because the caliper will need to be moved radially outboard to accommodate the increased rotor diameter. Doing so increases the effective radius, which means more torque is generated by the same clamp force. In order to keep the system balanced, an adjustable proportioning valve might be needed to increase the pressure of the rear calipers.”
”Cross-drilled rotors are another brake component that generally falls into the natural male enhancement category. The popularity of cross-drilled rotors is a carryover from the bygone days when outgassing vapors from the pad material reduced the friction level between pad and rotor.
The holes gave this vapor layer an escape path, allowing the friction material to remain in contact with the rotor. Modern friction materials don’t outgas like that anymore, and drilled rotors don’t provide the performance improvement they once did.
In addition, a drilled rotor has less thermal mass than an undrilled rotor of equal dimensions. Each hole is a prime location for cracks to form due to thermal and mechanical overload.
There are degrees of severity when it comes to stress concentrations, depending on both the type of concentration and the type of loading that the part sees. When a load is applied axially to the hole (as when the caliper squeezes the rotor), it’s not as bad as when the load is applied radially to the hole (trying to turn the round hole into an oval hole). On a related note, a chamfered hole has a lower stress concentration factor than a straight hole.
Again, ask the key question: Are these holes—and their potential problems—what the car needs?
If some protection against outgassing is required, or you want something sexier than plain rotors, go with slots instead of holes. With this route, compromise in rotor strength is negligible compared to holes.”
Grassroots Motor Sports
I am totally impervious to name-calling so you might as well stop (That is a pun).
Here is some parts of an article that you probably won’t read but maybe some others might find interesting. I was selective In the paragraphs I chose. I particularly liked the “male enhancement” comment. I’m sure you will too.
”Nothing makes people say “ZOMG!” quite like big front calipers, especially when they’re painted bright red. But big calipers do more than just look hot—they provide more clamp force on the rotor. More clamp force means more brake torque, which shifts the system balance toward front-bias. Big front calipers also require more fluid volume, which means longer pedal travel and less fluid reserve for when pad fade strikes.
So, unless your system is rear-biased, big front calipers are going to hurt, not help, your system balance. And if your master cylinder was marginally sized before the swap, you could wind up putting all your pedal force into the floorboard rather than into generating higher line pressures.”
”Assuming all other system parameters are held constant, increasing rotor diameter increases front brake thermal mass and front brake torque output. Think carefully—does your car really need that?
If you don’t see heat-checking or other thermal distress in your existing rotors, then you don’t need more thermal mass.”
”The key is to keep the system balanced. If larger front rotors are installed with no other changes, the system will become more front-biased. This is because the caliper will need to be moved radially outboard to accommodate the increased rotor diameter. Doing so increases the effective radius, which means more torque is generated by the same clamp force. In order to keep the system balanced, an adjustable proportioning valve might be needed to increase the pressure of the rear calipers.”
”Cross-drilled rotors are another brake component that generally falls into the natural male enhancement category. The popularity of cross-drilled rotors is a carryover from the bygone days when outgassing vapors from the pad material reduced the friction level between pad and rotor.
The holes gave this vapor layer an escape path, allowing the friction material to remain in contact with the rotor. Modern friction materials don’t outgas like that anymore, and drilled rotors don’t provide the performance improvement they once did.
In addition, a drilled rotor has less thermal mass than an undrilled rotor of equal dimensions. Each hole is a prime location for cracks to form due to thermal and mechanical overload.
There are degrees of severity when it comes to stress concentrations, depending on both the type of concentration and the type of loading that the part sees. When a load is applied axially to the hole (as when the caliper squeezes the rotor), it’s not as bad as when the load is applied radially to the hole (trying to turn the round hole into an oval hole). On a related note, a chamfered hole has a lower stress concentration factor than a straight hole.
Again, ask the key question: Are these holes—and their potential problems—what the car needs?
If some protection against outgassing is required, or you want something sexier than plain rotors, go with slots instead of holes. With this route, compromise in rotor strength is negligible compared to holes.”
Grassroots Motor Sports
OP
Thread Starter
#588
Thread Starter
#588
Go away you useless ****.
All you do is Google things you don’t understand then regurgitate opinions that match whatever preconceived notion you have. I’ve done this countless times. The homework was done by professionals. This is the exact same brake kit now that comes oem on the SRT Jeep’s...same sizes all around. Go email those guys and tell them they did it wrong...
All you do is Google things you don’t understand then regurgitate opinions that match whatever preconceived notion you have. I’ve done this countless times. The homework was done by professionals. This is the exact same brake kit now that comes oem on the SRT Jeep’s...same sizes all around. Go email those guys and tell them they did it wrong...
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”Assuming all other system parameters are held constant, increasing rotor diameter increases front brake thermal mass and front brake torque output. Think carefully—does your car really need that? "
The whole point to braking is to convert forward momentum into heat. So that statement is absolutely ridiculous.
AND...
"Big front calipers also require more fluid volume, which means longer pedal travel and less fluid reserve for when pad fade strikes"
Volume doesn't matter, unless the travel of the pistons is much greater. Another ridiculous statement. And I wasn't talking about Boyle's law about increased pressure=increased heat. Keep googling, it'll make you seem intelligent.
Whoever wrote that article is a fool.
The whole point to braking is to convert forward momentum into heat. So that statement is absolutely ridiculous.
AND...
"Big front calipers also require more fluid volume, which means longer pedal travel and less fluid reserve for when pad fade strikes"
Volume doesn't matter, unless the travel of the pistons is much greater. Another ridiculous statement. And I wasn't talking about Boyle's law about increased pressure=increased heat. Keep googling, it'll make you seem intelligent.
Whoever wrote that article is a fool.
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You still want to talk about brakes? The SRT is 600 pounds heavier than an ST; even with your ego in there, you’d have to agree that is a significant weight difference. Presumably Chrysler sized the mc for the volume of the calipers? Also, how is it proportioned? You are sticking the visible parts of an integrated system designed for another vehicle onto your car and assuming that it will work. I’m very happy for you for that...I’m surprised that with all the babbling about engineering from your angry buddy, it’s telling that you’ve done nothing in that regard. Maybe he could explain It to you?
It does look interesting though and as an ST owner I’m sure you will be spoken about around the campfire.
It does look interesting though and as an ST owner I’m sure you will be spoken about around the campfire.
OP
Thread Starter
#592
Thread Starter
#592
Do you think I just pulled this out of my ass? There’s a whole thread where the actual professionals the made this possible covered all aspects. You hide in build threads but don’t post your drivel there where the actual (not Google) experts can see and respond. I’d bet a large amount of money you’ve never done anything like this...ever. This is at least my 10th brake kit on various vehicles...all had their homework done by people that know a lot more than you and they all worked great. Here’s a fun fact...this one works great too. No go and Google some more bullshit so you can regale us with your expertise.
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OP
Thread Starter
#593
Thread Starter
#593
Back to the reason for this thread. I threw on the gloss black PPF b-pillar covers from The OCD Plug to hide the scratches they all get. Super easy install and invisible once installed. Give them a look if you’re tired of the scratches and don’t want the expense of ceramic coating.
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OP
Thread Starter
#596
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- Location
- Rancho Santa Margarita, CA, USA
- Vehicle
- 2020 Explorer ST
OP
Thread Starter
#599
Thread Starter
#599
@UNBROKEN love the strut bar, hope FenFab gets his available soon! But my only question, does it flex down when you lean on it like the useless stock one! 
Side note, for a minivan forum, this sure attracts a lot of super mega engineers and know-it-alls!
Side note, for a minivan forum, this sure attracts a lot of super mega engineers and know-it-alls!
It’s just an aluminum extrusion.
I’m gonna add a tab to the driver side mount and move my UPR catch can over there...hoping I can shorten and clean up the hoses a bit.
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