VTA mod, am I the first?

[Cross88]

So I just completed the VTA mod tonight. Cost me all of $4 at Lowe’s and I didn’t even use all of the caps. I don’t have a whole lot of pictures as this was a little spur of the moment. But I can be as descriptive as possible. I also haven’t taken it on a test drive, but I did do a rev test.

First off the bov is located under the airbox, and where the recirculation tube connects to is on the driver side. Good thing is there is plenty of room on that side.

Step 1: remove factory airbox to include upper and lower. The outlet pipes are just a flat head/socket (I used a flathead), and the inlet pipe can be removed by pinching/pushing in 3 tabs and pushing out (again sorry for no pictures but it’ll make sense when you go to do it).

Step 2: at this point you have your access to the BOV. Just remove the clamp, which ever way you feel you’d like, specialized tool or pliers. I just used pliers, squeeze twist and pull.

Step 3: trace the hose to the drivers side (not keen on terminology for the names of the pipes). Remove clamp and hose from this end. I will admit this side was much more difficult.

Step 4: once the drivers side connection is removed you can now install the cap and oem clamp. I used a chair leg cap, black, 1 1/8” - 1 1/4”. Perfect fit with the use of the oem clamp as some added securing for that warm and fuzzy. This part was a bit of pain, but with some patience, and motivation it can be done.

You’re now complete, and just reassemble.
If anyone has any questions, or wants further and more in depth pictures feel free to ask.

Also, if the video doesn’t upload I’m sorry.
Update, when you click on the video, click download not view. View didn’t work, but it worked on download. At least on my iPhone.

 

[MScott]

Great job and thanks for the write-up! That sounds wicked.

 

[Cross88]

Great job and thanks for the write-up! That sounds wicked.

Thanks , yea I can’t wait to actually take for a test drive and see how it sounds on a real acceleration and not just a rev. Now just gotta get a borla or magnaflow or some sort of aftermarket exhaust to remedy that oem lack of sound.

 

[NWExplorerST]

Thanks for sharing the tutorial, looks like I may be doing this soon lol

 

[QwikEVO]

Interested in the driving video.

I did this on my SHO years ago, and it was quite annoying that the BOVs blew off that every time you let off the throttle...no matter if you were under boost or not. Sounded like an SRT-4 or a Focus ST "pshhhhing" everywhere.

 

[Cross88]

Interested in the driving video.

I did this on my SHO years ago, and it was quite annoying that the BOVs blew off that every time you let off the throttle...no matter if you were under boost or not. Sounded like an SRT-4 or a Focus ST "pshhhhing" everywhere.

In all honesty, I don’t even hear it. Pretty much always driving around with windows up and either have the radio or a movie playing. But every once in a while I’ll crack the windows and play. It really is just a noise maker. What I’m really looking forward to is exhaust options.

 

[Shawn528]

Have you made a driving video yet? And any issues at all since you’ve done this?

 

[Cross88]

Have you made a driving video yet? And any issues at all since you’ve done this?

No driving video as of yet. It really can’t be heard unless you have the windows down, radio off and driving semi aggressively. But to date we have had no issues with this mod.

We did have a weird CEL about a week ago, had the code ran and it said “coolant temp to low for thermostat rating” or something along those lines. Couldn’t reset it via scanner but disconnected the negate battery terminal, started it (didn’t go away), went out later that day and the CEL was gone. No issues since.

Our only current issue is the front passenger heated seat doesn’t work, and the recent recall letter we got for seat recliner or something like that.

 

[Jbcain]

You're not going to like that vta mod once you do a tune and the power is turned up. Much quicker reacting/aggressive turbos(boost) and it'll get annoying quick.

 

[Cross88]

It’s possible. I know we aren’t tuning it for a few more years at least, but it’s the wife’s car and she likes the blow off noise.

 

[Capzir]

So I just completed the VTA mod tonight. Cost me all of $4 at Lowe’s and I didn’t even use all of the caps. I don’t have a whole lot of pictures as this was a little spur of the moment. But I can be as descriptive as possible. I also haven’t taken it on a test drive, but I did do a rev test.

First off the bov is located under the airbox, and where the recirculation tube connects to is on the driver side. Good thing is there is plenty of room on that side.

Step 1: remove factory airbox to include upper and lower. The outlet pipes are just a flat head/socket (I used a flathead), and the inlet pipe can be removed by pinching/pushing in 3 tabs and pushing out (again sorry for no pictures but it’ll make sense when you go to do it).

Step 2: at this point you have your access to the BOV. Just remove the clamp, which ever way you feel you’d like, specialized tool or pliers. I just used pliers, squeeze twist and pull.

Step 3: trace the hose to the drivers side (not keen on terminology for the names of the pipes). Remove clamp and hose from this end. I will admit this side was much more difficult.

Step 4: once the drivers side connection is removed you can now install the cap and oem clamp. I used a chair leg cap, black, 1 1/8” - 1 1/4”. Perfect fit with the use of the oem clamp as some added securing for that warm and fuzzy. This part was a bit of pain, but with some patience, and motivation it can be done.

You’re now complete, and just reassemble.
If anyone has any questions, or wants further and more in depth pictures feel free to ask.

Also, if the video doesn’t upload I’m sorry.
Update, when you click on the video, click download not view. View didn’t work, but it worked on download. At least on my iPhone.

Did you block both sides driver and passenger? I did this today and can’t hear anything

 

[Cross88]

There is only one side to block, that’s the driver side, the actually bov is on the other end of the tube and it’s under the air box. It’s not super loud, and not going to really hear it unless windows are down, but give the throttle a quick rev then a quick release and you’ll hear it. If not, then you may have a bov issue unfortunately.

 

[Capzir]

There is only one side to block, that’s the driver side, the actually bov is on the other end of the tube and it’s under the air box. It’s not super loud, and not going to really hear it unless windows are down, but give the throttle a quick rev then a quick release and you’ll hear it. If not, then you may have a bov issue unfortunately.

So the side under the air box you left open? I closed both sides with caps. Which one do I keep open... sorry I’m a noob

 

[Cross88]

Keep the side under the air box open. Don’t worry you won’t be letting anything in, the valve stays closed until it has that built up pressure to release. If you want to be extra you can install a little breather filter there. No worries, hope this helps.

 

[turntablekinetix]

anybody bought a boomba “bov” yet?

 

[turntablekinetix]

 

[turntablekinetix]

guys, i recommend the boomba vta adapter.. 89 bucks delivered, easy install, and it sounds great.. i will try to post a video of the sound when i get a chance.. however, if you plan on buying this, i suggest shaving about a quarter inch off the provided hardware.. they’re a bit long.. i wish they had provided a hex head bolt instead, but it’s fine..

 

[KegsBdry]

When you install that Boomba VTA adapter, can you make a video of it? That would help us all that wanna follow!

 

[turntablekinetix]

i did not.. sorry.. there’s a video on youtube actually, but it’s pretty simple.. like i said, the three screws they send are a bit long..

 

[KegsBdry]

got the link?

UPDATE: https://www.explorerst.org/threads/vta-mod-am-i-the-first.169/page-2#post-2443

Thank you.