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What Have You Done To Your Explorer ST Today

Boss240

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dang how many miles?
My brakes have felt warped for a couple thousand miles too and I've only got 98XX miles on it. Have the brake package too thinking I'd be good. I notice the shuddering of the brake pedal at higher speeds way too early in mileage then I've had before with any vehicle. Disappointed with the brakes.

I also feel like initial bite is very poor when the brakes are cold and they need to be warmed up or I need to press on the brake pedal much harder then I should.
 

Toadster

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Installed the Steeda Strut Tower Bar, really nice part!

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IMG_7396.jpg
 

Toadster

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My brakes have felt warped for a couple thousand miles too and I've only got 98XX miles on it. Have the brake package too thinking I'd be good. I notice the shuddering of the brake pedal at higher speeds way too early in mileage then I've had before with any vehicle. Disappointed with the brakes.

I also feel like initial bite is very poor when the brakes are cold and they need to be warmed up or I need to press on the brake pedal much harder then I should.
why not warranty those?
 

Toadster

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also installed the JLT J&L passenger side oil separator - really nice kit, fits PERFECTLY

IMG_7397.jpg
 

UNBROKEN

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My brakes have felt warped for a couple thousand miles too and I've only got 98XX miles on it. Have the brake package too thinking I'd be good. I notice the shuddering of the brake pedal at higher speeds way too early in mileage then I've had before with any vehicle. Disappointed with the brakes.

I also feel like initial bite is very poor when the brakes are cold and they need to be warmed up or I need to press on the brake pedal much harder then I should.
There’s a way better chance your rotors just had some pad residue built up on them than your rotors were warped. Modern rotors rarely warp…it’s pad build up like 95% of the time.
An old school trick that actually works pretty good is to spray the rotors with water when they’re cool and let the car sit overnight or until you get a hood coating of rust on them then run out and do a few hard stops. The rust scale acts like sandpaper I guess.
 

Boss240

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why not warranty those?
Because I had the vehicle over a year before it started happening. Doesn't get driven that much compared to my other cars. Brakes don't fall under regular warranty work and only have a short warranty period and low mileage. Not sure what the time frame and mileage is though.

There’s a way better chance your rotors just had some pad residue built up on them than your rotors were warped. Modern rotors rarely warp…it’s pad build up like 95% of the time.
An old school trick that actually works pretty good is to spray the rotors with water when they’re cool and let the car sit overnight or until you get a hood coating of rust on them then run out and do a few hard stops. The rust scale acts like sandpaper I guess.
It usually happens after I've used them hard a few times from higher speeds. If I do it once from 70+ it's fine but if I do a few quick slow downs from higher speeds it fades quicker than expected and shudders like they are warped.

I haven't tried the water and rust trick as I haven't heard that before. I've heard doing a couple really hard slow downs from high speeds usually knocks the buildup off but that's never worked for me.
 

UNBROKEN

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Because I had the vehicle over a year before it started happening. Doesn't get driven that much compared to my other cars. Brakes don't fall under regular warranty work and only have a short warranty period and low mileage. Not sure what the time frame and mileage is though.



It usually happens after I've used them hard a few times from higher speeds. If I do it once from 70+ it's fine but if I do a few quick slow downs from higher speeds it fades quicker than expected and shudders like they are warped.

I haven't tried the water and rust trick as I haven't heard that before. I've heard doing a couple really hard slow downs from high speeds usually knocks the buildup off but that's never worked for me.
What you’re describing is pad build up to a T. And doing high speed hard stops won’t clean it off…it usually just adds more. There has to be an abrasive and you want to do the opposite and not get them super hot. A good old Scotchbrite pad works too…just more effort to pull the wheels and clean both sides of the rotor.
 

Boss240

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What you’re describing is pad build up to a T. And doing high speed hard stops won’t clean it off…it usually just adds more. There has to be an abrasive and you want to do the opposite and not get them super hot. A good old Scotchbrite pad works too…just more effort to pull the wheels and clean both sides of the rotor.
Thanks. I may have to do that soon
 

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What you’re describing is pad build up to a T. And doing high speed hard stops won’t clean it off…it usually just adds more. There has to be an abrasive and you want to do the opposite and not get them super hot. A good old Scotchbrite pad works too…just more effort to pull the wheels and clean both sides of the rotor.
exactly this. This happens when doing HPDE days on the track for newer drivers. They dont have bed the brakes correctly when new pads go on and will have a terrible wobble when doing higher speed braking. Need to scrub off the brake pad material off the exsiting rotors then go and bed the brakes again.
 

Boss240

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Whats the best bedding process for the stock brakes once I scrub them down?
 

Toadster

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installed the Tim McFadden phone holder - definitely want to use an Apple charging cable since the generic ones didn't space properly - with the Apple one, it's a perfect fit

IMG_7400.jpg
 

Toadster

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also upgraded the rear lighting from Travis Ellisor from Houston Speed Freaks - these lights are BRIGHT, really helps with the 5% tint visibility!

replaces the rear amber signal/flasher, backup light, and the license plate lights...
NO issues with CANBUS either, no superflash, no errors - well worth the upgrade!

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JAIME-st

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I put new rubber on the wheels I had originally bought for my ‘89 lincoln towncar years ago. I only had the wheels on my towncar for like a month then someone T-boned my car and wrote it off, it was a very sad day. But today I am very happy again because now I get to finally use the wheels again. They are 20” and I really like the stock 21” rims so I decided to put winter tires on the towncar rims and will use them for the winter, but I had to put one on to see how it looked. I’m pretty happy with how they sit, because they are 18 offset they stick out quite a bit more than the stock ones so I think it will look really good when they are all on! FABA920C-2245-4490-911C-3FE64039E38A.jpeg
 

Cdubya

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Installed the Steeda Strut Tower Bar, really nice part!

View attachment 16970
Interesting that yours appears to be the original design. Steeda for a time had been selling a brace with bends towards the ends and didn't fit so well. I wonder if they just screwed up batch and now have it corrected. Personally, I like the original (the one you have).

This is CajunHeat's.
 

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Toadster

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interesting are there spacers in the front bolts on the black one? I can't tell..
 



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