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What Have You Done To Your Explorer ST Today

UNBROKEN

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Well, we're both right. You do have a way with words! Let me point out that the longer bolt will likely be hitting the subframe before the original bushing does much deflecting- therein lies the problem.
Yup…leaving 1/8” around the new bolt accomplished nothing. That bolt is still gonna whack the subframe.
 

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Guys, there is no metal on metal. The bolt is 5" long but the sub-frame is only 5/8" from the diff cover and the sub-frame is about 3" thick, no real leverage. I have a hard time believing that the OEM 3 mounting points flex enough to cause my bolt to be a problem. I think of it like a heavy load spring in a leaf pack on a pickup truck. It doesn't really do anything until there is a lot of load applied and then it should just help carry the additional load. If it is going up and down that much why are they not using the proper mounts (other than they are cheap and the occurrence is rare) which again means my bolt shouldn't "hurt" anything. I do appreciate the feedback though...
 

bosephbarking

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Guys, there is no metal on metal. The bolt is 5" long but the sub-frame is only 5/8" from the diff cover and the sub-frame is about 3" thick, no real leverage. I have a hard time believing that the OEM 3 mounting points flex enough to cause my bolt to be a problem. I think of it like a heavy load spring in a leaf pack on a pickup truck. It doesn't really do anything until there is a lot of load applied and then it should just help carry the additional load. If it is going up and down that much why are they not using the proper mounts (other than they are cheap and the occurrence is rare) which again means my bolt shouldn't "hurt" anything. I do appreciate the feedback though...
Ford engineering has given you the feedback in the recall. You are free to use that information as you choose. If the diff didn't move that much then the OE bolts wouldn't be bending and breaking.

They aren't using the proper mounts because they either cheaped out or they ran out of stock. You do know that every single Aviator is built with the 2 bolt rear subframe. It wasn't subject to the recall (because it was properly designed).
 

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BTW what are you guys that are “souping up” your power output doing with the bolt issue?
 

TMac

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Guys, there is no metal on metal. The bolt is 5" long but the sub-frame is only 5/8" from the diff cover and the sub-frame is about 3" thick, no real leverage. I have a hard time believing that the OEM 3 mounting points flex enough to cause my bolt to be a problem. I think of it like a heavy load spring in a leaf pack on a pickup truck. It doesn't really do anything until there is a lot of load applied and then it should just help carry the additional load. If it is going up and down that much why are they not using the proper mounts (other than they are cheap and the occurrence is rare) which again means my bolt shouldn't "hurt" anything. I do appreciate the feedback though...
You make a good point, but you're missing something. The differential doesn't move up and down in an exact plane, it rotates under torque. As such, the bolt will hit the furthest part of the subframe (your numbers- 3.625" away) well before it will hit the subframe 0.625" away. That's where the leverage comes in.
 

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The problem is the engineers designed in the two bolts for a reason but the bean counters took 1 out.
 

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You make a good point, but you're missing something. The differential doesn't move up and down in an exact plane, it rotates under torque. As such, the bolt will hit the furthest part of the subframe (your numbers- 3.625" away) well before it will hit the subframe 0.625" away. That's where the leverage comes in.
That does make sense
 

UNBROKEN

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That does make sense
If you picture it as it actually functions…it makes perfect sense. If you’re not sure how it actually functions…you probably shouldn’t just start slapping in extra bolts.
 

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Hearing all your concerns… I took the bolt out to see if there were any witnesses marks from movement. Sure enough the bolt had made contact with the sub-frame on the side closest the the diff. So in an abundance of caution I will leave it out and try to forget about it. Thanks again for setting me straight and without calling me an idiot :oops: at least in writing :)
 

bosephbarking

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Hearing all your concerns… I took the bolt out to see if there were any witnesses marks from movement. Sure enough the bolt had made contact with the sub-frame on the side closest the the diff. So in an abundance of caution I will leave it out and try to forget about it. Thanks again for setting me straight and without calling me an idiot :oops: at least in writing :)
The product that Unbroken tested on his vehicle is the only aftermarket diff mount I'd use. It ain't cheap but it's designed properly.

The link he provided is:

https://idspeedshop.com/id-speed-2020-explorer-st-rear-diff-brace/
 

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If you picture it as it actually functions…it makes perfect sense. If you’re not sure how it actually functions…you probably shouldn’t just start slapping in extra bolts.
My assumption was a slight amount of rotational movement, not to the extent that apparently it does. I will try not to “slap in” any more bolts.
 

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Added all weather cargo liner. Ready for the beach side fun.
(My kids second level cleaning, after a beach outing, usually happens here)
Husky FL.jpg
KISS Build - Thread covers all the small additions so far.
 

junlin

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My brakes were warped and just installed OEM rotors and pads last weekend. So much better.
 

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My brakes were warped and just installed OEM rotors and pads last weekend. So much better.
What were you running before you went back to stock?
 

Toadster

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My brakes were warped and just installed OEM rotors and pads last weekend. So much better.
dang how many miles?
 

Toadster

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