Wow! I thought it was a simple bolt screw in as some said there were threads already in the hole. That blows tho, wonder if it will be a more common thing as more and more people will start towing.
No the DIFF is threaded already, not the hole in the frame. The "hole" needs a lot of work to get a bushing into it then bolt it up. Not something for the faint of heart. Do-able, yes... easy...no... A competent fab shop could likely knock it out in a few hours depending on what all needed to be taken apart. Im GUESSING the diff needs to come out to get clearance. Likely a bunch of other stuff to(rear swaybar probably, just spitballing here).
Does it give any benefit? MAYBE.
Im guessing the bolt/bolts are at LEAST 10.9 and MAYBE 12.9. If its 10.9(grade 8 equivalent) and im spitballing on diameter since I dont know it, its likely got a shear strength somewhere in the 25000lb area. If its 12.9 its likely closer to 30000lbs... Thats a LOT OF FORCE. So high strength steel bolt into aluminum diff... Im actually surprised it didnt crack the diff since aluminum is FAR weaker than steel.
I think the OP's situation is a fluke IMO(not to put him down or anything remotely like that, his experience is his experience)... The first time it broke(along with a few other parts) they were putting some crazy forces on it(reverse emergency braking with a boat attached with no trailer brakes). That situation was possibly never engineered to occur nor tested for. The second, who knows if the bolt was bad, install was bad(over torqued), etc...
The OP's situation is the ONLY one of these I have read about and had it not been for this thread and his other one(about his driveshaft) I dont think anybody would be talking about this. Are there other reports out about it? Im not on Facebook so maybe on there there are... I would be interested to know if this is more widespread than 1 vehicle...
Im far more concerned that my entire front end sounds like all the joints are loose vs. only having a single bolt in the rear diff vs. 2...